Here
we look at the history of tartans and find out how
House of Tartan are continuing to promote the great
traditions of tartan and make it available to a
worldwide customer base.
Identifying
Tartans
'Every isle differs from each other in their fancy of
making plaids, as to the stripes and Breath and
Colours. This Humour is as different thro the main
land of the Highlands in-so-far that they who have
seen those places, are able, at the first view of a
man's pled, to guess the place of his residence...'.
So said Martin Martin writing in 1703, making the
first documented reference to tartan as a means of
identification. Since that time, the spirit of the
idea has grown to the extent that we have come to
believe that the pattern of woven coloured stripes has
become an important part of our cultural identity. The
pages of this guide are intended not only for this
study but also to introduce the historical
connections, apparent in the designs, which add to our
understanding of the structure of our social and
family heritage.
The Origins of Clan Tartans
It is now generally accepted that clan tartans were
established and named towards the end of the 18th
century. Prior to that time, while clan, district and
tartan were often closely associated, the idea of a
single uniform clan tartan had not yet emerged. It
would be wrong, however, to assume that the tartan
patterns were created at this time. William Wilson,
the foremost weaving manufacturer since c.1770, took a
great interest in reproducing "perfectly genuine
patterns" and engaged in extensive correspondence
with his Highland agents to gather information and
actual samples of the cloth woven in the clan
districts.
The natural development of the art of tartan
manufacture in the Highlands had been completely
curtailed for over 50 years. The battle of Culloden
(1746) was still within living memory and the
disarming acts which followed included the
proscription (ban) of Highland dress which was not
repealed until 1782. Tartan manufacture survived only
in the hands of the military and their Lowland
suppliers. Efforts to restore the spirit and culture
of the Highlands after this lengthy period of
repression, were encouraged by the newly formed
Highland Societies in London (1778) and Edinburgh
(1780). The warlike reputation of tartan, ruthlessly
crushed at home, was put to great military advantage
by the Highland regiments in their exploits abroad. By
1822, the year of the first Royal visit to Scotland
since the rebellion, all the ingredients for a
spectacular tartan revival were in place. Wilson had
over 200 setts recorded in the firm's pattern books,
many of them tentatively named, and the Highland
Society of London had persuaded the majority of the
clan chiefs to account for their clan tartans. So it
was in the capable hands of Sir Walter Scott that the
Royal seal of approval was added to the now highly
fashionable Highland Garb by a kilted King George IV.
The chiefs of the clans were commanded to attend the
king at Holyrood Palace in Edinburgh wearing their
Highland dress. This Royal patronage was later
continued and extended by Queen Victoria in her
passion for all things Scottish.
Evidence of the previous existence or tartan dates
back to the 3rd century A.D., when a small sample of
woollen check cloth was used as a stopper in an
earthenware pot to protect a treasure trove of silver
coins buried close to the Roman Antonine Wall near
Falkirk. The two colours of the sample were identified
as the undyed brown and white of the native Soay
Sheep.
References to tartans occur in various historic
documents, paintings and illustrations. A charter
granted to Hector MacLean of Duart in 1587 for lands
in Islay details a feu duty payable in the form of 60
ells cloth of white, black and green colours (the
colours of Hunting MacLean of Duart tartan), and an
eyewitness account of the Battle of Killecrankie in
1689 describes "McDonells men in their triple
stripe". It is reasonable to assume that any
tight knit community would wear the cloth produced by
the local weaver in quantities that would limit the
variety of patterns, and that when they went to war,
many would be dressed in the same material.
Many references support the role of the chief in
deciding the pattern and the colour of the plaids to
be worn in battle. This tradition is maintained to the
present day. New tartans accredited by the Scottish
Tartans Society must have the approval of the chief.
The district origins of clan tartans
Many of the oldest clan tartans may have originated in
the work of local weavers, whose designs became the
patterns we now know as District Tartans. For example:
The Huntly District Tartan.
The Old Lochaber.
The Glen Orchy district tartan.
The Lennox district tartan.
The Name
The present day name of the tartan is given, along
with several descriptive terms which have acquired
special meanings in this context. Strong feelings
surround the use of the word 'clan'. Some would insist
that only the acknowledged Highland tribes can so
described, while others regard it as a synonym for
family or, in fact, any group of people acting with a
common interest. In this book both Highland and
Lowland families are described as clans, in line with
the many historical references which use the term.
Tartans of branches of the main clans are also
described as clan tartans. Some names are associated
with more than one clan, and it is appropriate in
these instances to refer to the family tartan.
Hunting tartans, as their name implies, are designed
in subdued colours, often greens or blues, to blend
with the natural environment. Wearing of these tartans
is not restricted to the grouse moors, but is intended
for everyday use and informal occasions. Some clans
wear the Black Watch as their Hunting sett: For
example, the Munros.
Dress tartans are designed by altering one of the
background colours of the formal sett to white. Kilts
made of this material are usually worn for dancing;
not to be confused with 'formal dress' or 'evening
dress'. Names which include Mac, Mc or M' are always
spelt Mac in full followed by a capital letter, except
where the name refers to an individual who has stated
a preference by spelling his name in some other way.
In Gaelic, Mac and the name are two separate words.
Earliest known date
This entry records the first reference to the tartan
under its present name. The threadcount at that time
may be different from the illustrated sett but there
will be sufficient similarity to suggest that the main
elements of the design are still apparent in the
modern version. The use of parenthesis indicates that
there is some doubt about the historical validity of
the reference.
Earliest known source
This refers to the precise origin of the sett
described. A visit to the Queen Street Museum in
Edinburgh or the Mitchell Library in Glasgow will
reward the investigator with a glimpse of the subtle
beauty of these early samples. In some cases the
earliest reference will be the designer but more often
one of the early collections or publications will
provide the source. These are discussed in greater
detail in their own section of the book.
Status
The tartan of a Highland clan is determined by the
clan chief. The clansmen and followers (blood
relations and families taking protection from the
clan) wear the tartan of the chief. In most cases the
sett has been acknowledged for generations and is well
known to chief and clansmen alike, but occasionally
the chief may pronounce on a new pattern or
disassociate himself from an old one. A case in point
is the Clan Campbell tartan. The present chief does
not acknowledge the well known Campbell of Argyll, and
instead prefers to wear the plain Black Watch Campbell
in ancient colours.
The Highland Society of London has a collection of
tartans in which each sample is "Certified by the
Chief" and bearing his seal and signature.
The Lord Lyon maintains the Lyon Court Books and the
Public Register of All Arms and Bearings, in which are
registered those clan and family tartans appearing in
the families' coats of arms, usually as the background
to the clan badge.
The Scottish Tartans Society awards an Accreditation
status to newly designed tartans, including clan,
family, district, regimental, corporate and clan
society tartans, in the Register of All Publicly Known
Tartans. Acknowledged tartans which do not fall into
any of these categories, are 'Recorded' in the same
register.
Type
Three types of pattern are listed. Symmetrical setts
contain two pivots; the points where the sequence of
stripes, starting at the pivot, can be seen to be
identical in four directions, North, South, East and
West. The two pivots are connected along the diagonal
by plain squares, each of a single colour. The full
sett is the sequence of colours read from right to
left, turned about the pivot, and repeated left to
right. It is usually between 5 and 7 inches in width
to accommodate the kilting (pleats). A symmetrical
tartan can be recorded as an half sett.
Asymmetrical setts have no true pivots although
appearances can be deceptive. The pattern is repeated
from right to left across the width of the cloth.
Manufacturers using double width looms change the
direction of the pattern at the centre, where the
cloth will be folded, to allow tailors to match the
colours when cutting items of clothing other than
kilts. Tailor's off cuts could contain some pieces
easily mistaken for examples of a symmetrical form of
an asymmetrical tartan. The full sett must be recorded
beginning at the colour whose first letter is nearest
to the beginning of the alphabet. It is also necessary
to establish the front of the cloth: The side on which
the individual stitches appear to make diagonal lines
from bottom left to top right.
Equal check
This is the simplest form of tartan involving only two
colours. The MacGregor tartan known as Rob Roy is a
black and red check. The Moncreiffe tartan is red and
green.
HOUSE of TARTAN
HOUSE of TARTAN aim to continue this story by
maintaining and developing the interest in Tartan
throughout the world, and providing a focus to
stimulate a greater awareness in the history and
culture associated with Tartan, the Clans and their
respective family and geographical links. Through the
provision of information and the ongoing development
of our database, we aim to bring about a wider
enthusiasm and appreciation for the superb designs,
patterns and colours that have become established over
the years as an important and integral part of
Scottish heritage.
Our service provides a comprehensive choice of fabrics
and products for personal and Corporate customers,
enabling access to the widest source of quality
fabrics and products from Scotland. For those wishing
to create new Tartans, or wanting to establish a new
Corporate identity, we offer a Tartan fabric design
and product supply service.
© House of Tartan 1999 - 2009
